The Art of Living
The Art of Living
Arabian Nights
12 September 2011
Eloise Napier visits the far-reaching sandy expanse of Oman’s Empty Quarter and discovers a land blessed with relative anonymity and void of commercial influence
The legendary explorer Wilfred Thesiger called Oman ‘a bitter, desiccated land that knows nothing of gentleness or ease … a cruel land that can cast a spell which no temperate clime can match’. Sitting on the top of a sharkfin shaped dune, with an ice-cold glass of elderflower cordial in one hand, a pair of small binoclars in the other and a bowl of fresh pistachio nuts at my feet, I have a feeling that Thesiger was exaggerating a bit.
It resembles a giant sandpit – but not like any sandpit you’ve ever seen before. This one stretches over 250,000 square kilometers, has dunes almost as tall as the Eiffel Tower and boasts plains of rippled sand that stretch forever into the horizon, like frozen oceans.
Thesiger spent four years exploring the furthest reaches of the Empty Quarter, a huge expanse of desert occupying substantial chunks of Oman, Saudi Arabia and Yemen; several times he nearly died and on one occasion he lay crumpled on the side of a sand dune, starving to death and hallucinating, until his Bedu companions returned to save him.
I, on the other hand, have journeyed to this remote corner of Oman in, albeit sweltering 41 degree heat, in a much appreciated, air-conditioned jeep. Evenings have been spent in a luxurious, temporary campsite, where the tents have beds with linen sheets and goosedown pillows and meals have appeared, as if by magic, on an openair table covered with a pristine, white tablecloth. The days have been spent exploring the dunes or relaxing in the shade of the maIjlis, an open-sided tent filled with cushions and divans. It all seems so easy.
And yet, the reality couldn’t be further from the truth. To stay in such comfort and safety in such a remote and potentially dangerous area takes Hurculean levels of organisation and efficiency. It’s why very few people are lucky enough to visit the Empty Quarter. There are only three guests, yet there is a team of about 15 people looking after us; the roads and tracks to this isolated site are so rough that the vans bringing all the equipment have been plagued with endless blow-outs and engine break downs – sand and internal combustion engines make poor companions. However, the seamless professionalism of the team means that we remain blissfully ignorant of the logistical hiccoughs.
Instead, we are entertained by the rip-roaring tales of our host, Colonel Mike Wilson, co-founder of Hud Hud Travels (Arabic for the hoopoe bird). An ex-pat Scotsman who came to Oman in the 1970s, aged 23, to join the army, he looks like he has stepped straight from the film set of Lawrence of Arabia – a maelstrom of flashing cobalt eyes, swept back silver hair, twirling moustache and devilishly off-colour one-liners. Fluent in Arabic and with more insider knowledge than you would find on a Google search, he guides us from one extraordinary place to another.
Our trip starts in the south of Oman, near Salalah. Nowhere else will you find a geography so infused with contrast. One moment you are paddling on a beach watching dolphins play in front of you; the land around so dry that even the camels have given up and moved elsewhere. Less than an hour away by car and you find yourself in the the Jebel Dhofar, a range of mountains blessed with monsoon rains and views of bubbling waterfalls and hillsides carpeted with intensely verdant jungle. It’s said that during the monsoon season (June to September) posters go up in the local airport announcing triumphantly, “Come to Salalah and see mud”
Halfway up one of the winding roads leading to the top of the mountains, Mike abruptly stops the jeep. He points to a huge cliff and says, “That’s what the insurgents during the Communist uprising threw their enemies over. During the Khareef (monsoon) it turns into a massive waterfall.” We all look at the plunging void with horror. Ironically, it has one of the most staggering views you could imagine – an endless panorama of jagged coastline, melting into the the ruins of Sumhuram, home to the biblical Queen of Sheba.
‘Jebel Dhofar has an endless panorama of jagged coastline, melting into the ruins of Sumhuram, home to the biblical Queen of Sheba’
The road continues to climb until, suddenly, we find ourselves on an open plateau where nearly 1,000 camels of all shapes, sizes and ages graze benignly; large birds soar above us, like tea trays in the sky. It feels like entering The Land That Time Forgot.
Which – to a certain extent – is true. Oman has a rich culture that goes back over 5,000 years – it’s here that the prophet Job endured years of torment; Sinbad the Sailor took off in his dhow from the port of Sohar, near Muscat; Alexander the Great and Vasco de Gama both marvelled at the country’s potential. For generations, Oman was at the centre of the frakincense trade, growing rich off the aromatic gum that was once considered more precious than gold. But by the beginning of the 20th century, however, Oman was virtually cut off from the rest of the world; by the time the current Sultan, Qaboos, came to power in a coup in1970 the country boasted only 10 kilometres of tarmac road, one hospital and electricity in only two cities.
Since then, Sultan Qaboos has painstakingly overseen the regeneration of Oman to the point where the country has become a glittering jewel in the Middle East – sophisticated, politically secure, economically successful. Visitors are welcomed with charm and warmth; Omanis are universally acknowledged as the “gentlemen of the Arabian Peninsula.”
Crucially, from a traveller’s point of view, the sultanate’s heritage has been fiercely preserved. There are no themed entertainment parks or huge, underground malls packed with souless commercialism; instead, you discover beautiful architecture, bustling covered markets and vast tracts of beautiful, uninhabited landscape.
In many ways, there’s almost too much to see and do – which is where the expertise of Colonel Wilson kicks in. It takes an insider’s knowledge to scoop you away from the beguiling comfort of Muscat, where it’s all too easy to lose yourself in the luxury of one of the capital’s five star hotels, with their pristine beaches and world-class restaurants. It’s only by escaping the beaten track that can you judge for yourself the veracity of Thesiger’s haunting words – but, unlike Thesiger, you get the best of all worlds; all the adventure, with none of the pain.
Traveler’s Tips
• The best time to visit Oman is between October and April, when the weather is temperate in the day and cool at night.
• Many shops, post offices and other businesses are closed or work reduced hours over Ramadan, so it’s preferable to pick another time to visit. In 2009, Ramadan is from 21 August to 19 September.
• Although Omanis are generally considered to be more liberal and laid back than their Middle Eastern neighbours, it’s still respectful not to wear tight or revealing clothing, and for women to cover their arms and legs.When in Muscat…
Stay at: The Chedi – a glorious design hotel; it’s been around for a bit but it still remains a fabulous place to stay – the spa is superb, the suites loaded with every comfort you can imagine and the restaurant is world-class. www.ghmhotels.comThings to do: Go on a quadbike expedition up deserted wadis (dry creeks), into the desert and through the mountains. Exhilarating and unforgettable. www.hudhudtravels.com
Mount Hartman Bay Estate
12 September 2011
The challenge was on. A fortieth birthday loomed. How to throw a memorable house-party, and fine-tune the invitation list to accommodate parents, god-parents, a clutch of recalcitrant teenagers, another clutch of turbo-charged pre-schoolers and the demands of a bunch of high-achieving closest mates. Did such a villa exist anywhere in the world that would be large enough, special enough and flexible enough to live up to such an occasion?
Mount Hartman Bay Estate located on the southern shores of the charming and quirky island of Grenada near where the pale turquoise of the Caribbean and the indigo of the Atlantic meet and mix, may well be the perfect party location. Owned by a telecom millionaire with obvious vision, the house squats like an exotic bug among three acres of tropical garden at the end of a private and secure promontory overlooking the bay. Built partly into the rock-face with a cactus and grass covered roof and cooled by internal waterfalls, this is the antithesis of the usual sedate colonial- style island house. What you have here, instead, is as fantastical, futuristic and fabulous as Octopussy’s lair, complete with helipad and private jetty and, as local folklore has it, a secret elevator that accesses the beach from the master bedroom. Having said that, even after a fortnight searching, I never succeeded in locating it!
Actually, ‘master bedroom’ is a misnomer; one of the great things about Mount Hartman Bay is that there is no ‘best’ room for any one to bicker over. All 12 suites have equal space and spectacular views across the bay, most with indoor and outdoor bathrooms and all have enough high-tech gadgetry to warm the cockles of any technophile (or James Bond villain’s ) heart with Bose sound system and flat 42” plasma screens, ipods loaded with 1,800 tracks in all the bedrooms. There is also a home cinema, Sony Playstation and plenty of other toys-for-the-boys including a record-breaking Blade Runner 51ft powerboat capable of speeds of up to 70 knots for the exclusive use of the guests. It even has an outdoor misting system, a sort of air condition to keep passengers cool while sitting in the cockpit. There are also motor launches for wakeboards, jet boats and sea scooters.
Everything in the house is built on a generous scale; beds and wardrobes are oversized, the theatrical Biedermeier furniture upholstered in black damask would seat an entire foot ball team, the kitchen and the wine cellars are vast and cavernous and perfectly adapted for party-entertaining. Indeed, the dining room table, hand carved out of Venezuelan purple heart is so heavy, immoveable and huge (it can seat 30 comfortably) it had to be made on the premises.
There are pods of rooms in different zones across the estate so that, for instance, the children’s hysteria over sightings of spiders and lizards need never intrude on the whispered canoodlings of the loved-up couples. The children, we hardly saw. They could not have been more thrilled by The Flinstones meets Tracy Island architecture, and spent happy hours sliding through the internal waterfalls and using the rocky wall face of the semi-troglodyte setting as a climbing frame. We never saw much of the teenagers either, while the freshly-minted fiancées were sent off to the turret suite – a wonderful romantic eyrie located up a funky glass staircase overlooking the pool. The noisier singletons were consigned to the separate beach house with its own pool and spacious wooden decks giving on to the beach where we enjoyed daily sunrise yoga sessions with marvellous Mike, the fitness instructor.
Nothing was too much trouble. ‘No problem!’ was his response when we insisted on night time yoga on the pontoon – a can-do enthusiasm shared by all members of the 16-strong resident staff, managed by ex-SAS factotum Pete, aka ‘Bionic Man’. He was certainly a force to reckon with, with his impressive biceps, bald head and command over the huge mastiffs that roam and protect the estate at night. He met each new request as a challenge to be handled with humour and grace. When we casually said we wanted to dine alfresco he organised for the roasting spit and grill to be delivered to nearby Hog Island for a Caribbean-style ‘jump up’ and barbecue beneath the tamarisks on the sand. He personally towed the spit himself, strung out on a rope behind the boat and bouncing around in its wake. The chef (a disciple of Gary Rhodes) willingly gave us cookery demonstrations and rose mightily to the challenge of meeting the various allergies, vegan or AA leanings of the demanding group in exceptional formal feasts night after night.
It was easy to fall under their spell and the ‘anything’ goes charm of the island. Easy to be seduced by the languid beaches and crazy history of the island. We spent days exploring waterfalls and volcanic craters in our 4 x4s; we sampled a variety of fish specials at different and sensational restaurants everyday. We road-tested cocktails at memorable beach shacks like Aquarium and spent siesta hours snoozing beside the 27 metre infinity pool, cooled by remote controlled mist vaporizers built into the retractable awning.
Whether our euphoric highs were generated by the easygoing sprit of the island or by the fun, innovative design and spirit of the villa, it was hard to say but as a venue for a special event, Mount Hartman Bay Estate is impossible to beat.
TO BOOK: 08704288411 www.mounthartmanbay.com
The estate accommodates up to 24 guests in 12 doulbe rooms including the Beach House which can also be rented separately) Cost from (check) £2750 per person a week including all food and drinks , laundry , staff of 16 transfers all boats and the use of two Mitsubishi Shoguns 4x4s.
Body Beautiful
30 August 2011
If discreet surgical enhancement along with five-star treatment and beautiful
surroundings for your recovery is what you are after, then look no further than
this selection of luxury medical spas. Anastasia Stephens looks at some of the
best places to visit that are in-demand as never before
LA PRAIRIE, SWITZERLAND
The original anti-ageing spa, at La Prairie you can turn back the traces of
time on everything from facial-lines to your arteries. Nestled on the shores of
Switzerland’s Lac Leman, La Prairie offers a team of medical experts, ready to
carry out everything from hip replacements, to eyelifts, breast-augmentation and
cosmetic dentistry for a brighter smile. If that’s too drastic, you can opt for a touch
of Botox or a little cheekbone enhancement. Meals are prepared with a focus
on nutritional benefit as well as taste and a wide range of pampering massages
and beauty therapies are also available. Those who crave complete discretion
can book a self-contained suite with an elevator that leads straight to the medical
rooms. Private cars can be booked to pick you up from Geneva airport, a one
hour drive away.
www.laprairie.ch
HOTEL FORTINA & SPA, MALTA
At the Hotel Fortina, built on a rocky outcrop overlooking the southern
Mediterranean, you can relax in your personal Wellness Rejuvenation Room
with a massaging bath or steam shower, knowing that all the water you use is
purified. From your palm-lined balcony you can choose from a raft of cosmetic
surgery procedures including a non-surgical facelift. The hotel has links with
consultants from St James Private Hospital Group in London and Medical Malta.
The extensive choice of spa treatments – which includes a Cleopatra style goat’s
milk bath – will help you recover.
www.hotelfortina.com
S MED SPA, BANGKOK
This high-tech spa facility has seven spa suites, five consultation rooms,
massage rooms, a pharmacy and laboratory, making medical diagnosis and
treatment, along with any pampering, immediately available. Voted one of the
best medical spas in Asia, it offers a wide range of cosmetic treatments including
fractional resurfacing where a laser clears out uneven skin colour and carboxy, a
technique that reduces cellulite.
www.smedspa.com
CAPRI PALACE HOTEL, ITALY
Combining Italian chic with pampering and a wide range of medical expertise,
the Capri Palace Hotel is a true delight. You’ll find fresh orchids and French
doors opening to a lazy pool area and for beauty and anti-aging treatments,
book into the eponymous Beauty Farm adjacent to the hotel. Here, you can have
a full health check including an ECG, allergy-tests and nutrient tests. Beauty
treatments include facial peels, Botox, cheek and lip enhancement using fillers
and implants and spa treatments use mineral waters from nearby springs.
www.capripalace.com
WARMBAD THERMAL SPA, AUSTRIA
Bathe in the thermal waters in five-star luxury at this 200-year-old spa town, while
taking in views of the southern Austrian Alps. At the medical centre you can book
most cosmetic procedures such as liposuction, eye-lifts and hair transplants.
Gently recover using the spa facilities which include a salt water grotto, a Finnish
sauna and a crushed ice fountain. The spa water is said to promote cellular
rejuvenation. If outdoors is your thing, you can go hiking and skiing or play golf
and tennis depending on the season.
www.warmbad.com
White Heat
30 August 2011
Super-chef Marco Pierre White had it all – three Michelin stars, a jet-set celebrity profile and a glamorous wife. And then he jacked it all in. Nancy Alsop discovers what caused the implosion and reveals that success second time round is even sweeter.
Marco Pierre White fixes me with one of his disarmingly intent stares, and then tells me that he has fallen in love. Such is the force of his extravagant – at times alarming – magnetism and commitment to the moment, that for a millisecond I wonder if he is declaring his amour for me. Granted, it would be unorthodox even by his standards, given that we met just twenty minutes ago, but then, White is an all-or-nothing sort of chap. This is the man who slavishly pursued the ultimate gastronomic triumvirate through his twenties and early thirties, grabbed his three Michelin stars by the record-smashing age of 33 (he was also the first Brit to do so), and then, in an unprecedented move, gave them back just five years later.
But no, it seems that his ardour is reserved for another. And this time – for the first time, he tells me – it’s The Real Thing. That she’s half-Spanish, and half-Italian is all he will reveal of his mystery paramour. But just as the fixity of his gaze reaches full throttle, he breaks it up with a shiny-eyed, wolf-like smile and, donning the thick Yorkshire intonation of his youth, expands: ‘It’s like being with my mother and the ex-wife.’ That’s probably just why you fell for her, I proffer. He concurs. ‘She’s the best of them both.’ And what’s more, he says, he has never felt happier.
The pursuit of happiness, conscious or not, is prosaically paramount to us all, but nonetheless, White’s personal Operation Contentment has been more rollercoaster, thrilling and elusive than most. Everything that surrounds him is extreme; his rapt stare is merely the physical manifestation of the zeal he applies to the everyday of his life.
The quest began at The Box Tree in Ilkley where he received his formative training – still ‘the most magical restaurant I have ever stepped inside’ – and where he convinced his superiors that he was the fastest veg chef in history. Following on, he worked for a handful of the greatest chefs of the time. Albert and Michel Roux, as well as Raymond Blanc all contributed to the making of this enfant terrible, who, once installed at Wandsworth’s Harvey’s (where he garnered his third star) became the world’s first celebrity chef.
Inevitably, where greatness dwells, the rumour vultures come circling, and White’s kitchen was no exception; reports of unpalatable working conditions and even violence within it – some not unfounded – did the rounds, but amidst the gossip, he kept his head down and cooked. That is, until that day in 1999, mourned by many, when he hung up his apron for good. On which subject he is staunchly impenitent: ‘If I buy tickets to see Elton John with you tonight, we sit down, the curtains open and it’s his right-hand man playing his songs, we’re not happy are we? We don’t mind paying big money so long as the guy whose name’s above the door is cooking.’ Unlike some of his contemporaries, White was not prepared to live that lie; nor was he willing to continue working long hours six days a week, only ever seeing his children in their beds. ‘ I decided to give back my stars, to let go of my status, to abdicate from my position and to accept that the next day, I’m unemployed.’
That was nine years ago; in the interim, he exiled himself to the country: ‘I went shooting, fishing and stalking – it was a journey of self-discovery’. Today we are installed in the 1920s jazz club-inspired Knightsbridge manifestation of Frankie’s Bar and Grill, the small chain White set up with friend and jockey, Frankie Dettori. After his edifying sabbatical, he has returned, but as a restaurateur, and categorically not as a chef. The inspiration behind these glitterball-lit throwback establishments was to give the public affordable glamour. Disillusioned with the archaic criteria of Michelin when he threw in the towel, he maintains (and Frankie’s underlines) that he has ‘had it with the fussy French world. I want to give people what they want at a price point that doesn’t sting their pockets’. And he does this well. Simple, basic and largely Italian, it harks back to White’s and Dettori’s familial roots.
White seems in jolly spirits; by no means is his brooding element totally vanished, but he certainly appears calmer than in those heady days when he was behind the stove. These days he says, he has his ‘visions’, rather than ambitions, but ask him what his biggest luxury is and without missing a beat he replies humbly: ‘Being alive. I live for the moment. I don’t think of my past, and I don’t think of my future. People condemn me for being this spontaneous creature, but when you watch your mother die like I did when I was six, you live for the moment.’
White presents something of a riddle; there are, without doubt, theatrical qualities. His conversation is precisely delivered, reflective, self-possessed. He tells me that he enjoys giving interviews, largely because he has always done so many more than the person interviewing him (‘they’re always scared of me’, he says with a part-twinkly, part-combative grin), yet his talk is peppered liberally with assertions of being ‘not that clever’. Likewise, he declares himself free of burning professional drive, but professes that ‘the only line I’ve ever really related to is Salvador Dali’s. He said: ‘At six, I wanted to be a chef, at seven, Napoleon, and my ambitions have been growing ever since.’ He is relaxed, yet he only snatches a Thatcherite four hours sleep every night. He singles out Napoleon as his hero, for his rare combination of vision and action, and yet his greatest influence, he says more understatedly, has been his mother. ‘Whenever I have to make a decision, I always ask what she would do.’
Despite the enigma, two things are for certain. First, that he has an impish and at times wicked sense of humour, as evidenced in his recent ITV series, Marco’s Great British Feast, in which he traversed the country in a nostalgic bid to rediscover some of the all-but-lost culinary traditions of his youth, all the while ribbing his faithful driver and Man Friday, Mr Ishii, as well as himself, and, at one point, delighting like a child in the company of a pair of donkeys.
At six, I wanted to be a chef, at seven, Napoleon, and my ambitions have been growing ever since
The second is that, in keeping with the abiding staunchness of his character, he is unswervingly loyal. And well he should be; as he tells me, he chooses friends with care. ‘I only associate with people who enrich my life and my family’s life. If not, then I don’t go down that road, it’s a waste of energy. I’m highly generous, because that is my nature. What no one knows is that when I give to people, I watch how they receive. Do they take it with appreciation, or do they take the piss? It’s a very small price to pay to know who somebody is. Just give it to them.’ He is devoted to his teenage children – his ‘beautiful boys’ – with whom he has just spent two weeks touring Spain, Italy and France. ‘I will never invest emotionally in anything in my life as much as I did winning three stars from Michelin professionally, so therefore, the only thing I would ever invest in to such a great degree is my children,’ says White.
But above all things, Marco Pierre White is steadfastly honest. He will never give you the most flattering version of the truth, simply the Whitean account, and the curious blend of humility and self-belief is perhaps natural for a man who left school with no qualifications, yet turned out to be the trailblazing culinary genius of modern gastronomy.
So when he tells you that he considers his ultimate success to be his self-discovery, or that he has no regrets, you are inclined to believe him, for there is nothing of the crowd pleaser about White. Take for instance, his refusal to be drawn into any sort of public social scene; he chooses instead to be seen only within his own establishments. ‘I don’t walk the streets, I don’t go shopping, no one sees me in public, I don’t turn up to charity events – doesn’t mean I don’t support them, but I don’t like charity being made in to a social event. In fact, I hate it. I don’t turn up to award ceremonies. Everybody is given a choice in life, whether they swim in the deep end of society, or the shallow end of society. I choose to swim with those at the deep end.’ And of course, from time-to-time, with journalists, with whom he says he is unfailingly frank. ‘The reality is, I have told everything to everybody in my life. If you sit down with a journalist, you have to be honest, you have to answer their questions, you can’t go around the bushes.’ Which, I tell him, makes him a singularly gratifying subject. ‘You don’t get them better girl’. And in a miasma of tobacco smoke, he’s gone.
Jessica McCormack
20 October 2008
By Verity Douglas
“Jewellery is one of the art forms we hold closest to our hearts,” believes Jessica McCormack, whose distinctive diamonds are designed with ‘wearability’ in mind. Worlds away from some of the more generic jewels on offer, McCormack’s collections fuse elegance with edge, elevating diamonds from their lowly ‘special occasion’ status. Sitting just as beautifully against jeans and a t-shirt as evening gowns and extravagance, McCormack’s pieces are created to spend their lives with you, rather than hidden in the bottom of a scarcely opened safety deposit box.
Each “miniature sculpture” blends antiquity with modernity in a dazzlingly and dynamic way. With influences that span both centuries and continents, from Greek Mythology to the ever changing New York skyline, McCormack successfully unites the seemingly incompatible.
Raised by an antique dealer, McCormack has confessed to a “possession obsession”, fuelled by her lifelong exposure to some of “the most important antique and period jewels in the world.” Yet her passion stems not purely from an appreciation of their beauty but also their timelessness, a quality which she seeks to imbue in her own work. With no formal training, McCormack is “brave and unexpected” taking jewellery into previously unchartered territory. Free from the rules of ‘how something should be done’ she has the scope to be reckless and inventive, channelling her interests to create pieces that people “covet, desire, wear, love” and ultimately, use. So, if you’re feeling jaded by trend-led trinkets that are more ‘one-hit wonder’ than future heirloom, then Jessica McCormack’s studio in Clerkenwell should be the number one destination for any savvy ‘sartorialist’.
While you won’t be confronted with a cynical doorman and row upon row of ‘look but don’t touch’ display cases, you certainly won’t be met with disappointment. Bedecked with an eclectic assortment of commodities both old and new, the shop resembles a magpie’s haven with diamonds dripping from the various curios McCormack has collected over the years. Banksy originals hang alongside contemporary artworks by artists from her native New Zealand, which co-exist strikingly with antique dressers and monkey skulls. Embodying McCormack’s flair for juxtaposition, the salon is daring and exciting, subverting the all too common perception that jewellery should be ‘unattainable.’ Like “France circa Marie Antoinette meets Andy Warhol’s factory” the salon is a true reflection of McCormack’s ethos, that luxury should be measured in emotional and not monetary terms.
Which is why anyone looking to dispel the imminent winter woes, should make an appointment to “play” amidst McCormack’s personal treasure trove and hopefully walk away with a tiny treasure of their own. Jessica and her team are on hand to cater to your wildest demands, from reincarnating your grandmother’s diamonds to creating a ‘heritage piece’ that will delight for decades. Go ahead and wear your art on your sleeve.
Miss Provocative
03 October 2008
By Alanna Lynott
Art and sex have forged an alliance with luxury to redefine allure in the 21st century. Sweep aside your prejudice and join us as we explore one of today’s most inspiring luxury brands. Their provocative advertising campaigns, high energy catwalk shows and heavenly scents combine beautifully to ensure Agent Provocateur remains as desirable as ever.
Their latest campaign, ‘Season of the Witch’, was unveiled recently to a rapturous response. Inspired by de la Roche’s Execution of Lady Grey and Rubens’ Massacre of the Innocents, it exudes a dark, sultry sexuality set against the backdrop of a riotous paganesque house party, where guests included ingénue Daisy Lowe and the deliciously naughty-looking Peaches Geldof.
And expect even more naughtiness in Part II of the campaign, which will feature the new face of the brand, Brazilian beauty Alice Dellal, swinging from a chandelier, while Pixie Geldof and Helena Christiensen indulge in a food fight.
More celebratory, more seductive and more glamourous than ever before, the ‘Season of the Witch’ collection uses sumptuous colours, soft silks, sheer tulle, extravagant lace and opulent details to cocoon the wearer in luxury.
And if the thought of bearing all leaves you feeling cold as the nights draw in, Agent Provocateur’s intoxicating perfumes and ravishing lotions will soon get you in the mood, and none more so than their latest limited edition offering, DD.
Just launched last week with an intimate yet spectacular show, DD is housed in a voluptuously shaped bottle, nestled in a satin-lined case. It dazzles the senses with real diamond dust blended with saffron oil from India, Egyptian Jasmine and Vetivert from Haiti, amongst other exotic elements.
With all the on-stage pizzazz of Dita Von Teese, models were sent down the mirrored catwalk dripping in pearls and false lashes. Like creatures from an exotic (and erotic) fairytale, the models wore the heady scent and little else. It was a show full of theatrics: muscular men carried a chaise bearing the Amazonian Fran Cutler, while one model poured milk over her alabaster skin as she sashayed down the catwalk.
Daisy Lowe opened the show, dressed only in a beautiful silver lace half cup bra, briefs with pearl detailing and crystal-embellished stockings, while fans of the label (including Kate Moss and Kelly Osbourne) cheered her on. It was clear from the beginning that, from the models to the guests, the evening was all about the power of women.
As Agent Provocateur’s proprietor, Joe Corré (son of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm Mclaren) believes: “Powerful women are not victims. They’re in control, and that is very sexy.” This is a philosophy shared by Charlotte Semler and Nina Hampson, the founders of Myla (London’s famous bedroom boutique), who decided to set up the company after realising that, although sex is everywhere in the media, there was no suitable brand for today’s style- and fashion-conscious women, who demand luxury in all aspects of their lives.
With such inspiring brands, beauties and designers involving themselves in the empowerment of women everywhere, this is one trend that is sure to grow for some time to come. How can you resist joining in?
www.agentprovocateur.com
Antony Micallef
25 September 2008
By Alanna Lynott
His work has been described as “Caravaggio meets Manga” and “Bacon in Disneyland”: Antony Micallef’s surprising style is just what the UK art scene has been searching for.
Lauded as “one of the most collectable artists living and working in the UK today”, Micallef has exhibited alongside Tracy Emin, Banksy, Damien Hirst and Marc Quinn to name a few. His career took off in 2000, when he was named runner-up in the National Portrait Gallery’s BP/Amaco Portrait of the Year competition.
His trip to Tokyo in 1999, where he built up a “fascination with cultural icons and motifs and their relation to society and the individual”, earmarked him as an exciting young talent. His work from this time is both colourful and disturbing, fed by his view of Japanese culture as “completely twisted”. He says of it: “You have the real sugar side, but there’s always a dark side underneath. I’m trying to look at that in-between space in pop.”
It is that “in-between space” that Micallef explores so well, with his free lines and whimsical characters. Much of his work seems to celebrate our relationship with consumerism, while at the same time despising it.
“The trouble with pop imagery is that it doesn’t really go deeper than the surface” he states. “You have to drag it down and challenge it to make it interesting, marry contrasting emotions and motifs. The union of two opposites make an intriguing and strange chemistry.”
And that is a huge part of the appeal of Micallef; he is the thinking man’s artist of the moment. He is not only culturally aware, but his pieces are a deeply considered response to the people and places he has personally experienced.
Nowhere is this more evident than in his ‘Pictures from Palestine’ – four paintings based on his trip to Palestine, inspired by his time in Bethlehem during Santa’s Ghetto in 2007. A departure from his trademark “bubblegum pop” style (an empty term that conveys merely the uppermost veneer of Micallef’s work – “critical pop” is a better label if one is needed) and strongly political, the black and white paintings are as haunting as they are arresting and stark.
Never one to stagnate, Micallef has now made a foray into sculpture. From 1st November the Royal Academy’s Burlington Gardens will be exhibiting four four-metre high bronze nickel-plated statues as part of the GSK Contemporary season. The Idol Kids of Today: Burger Boy, Game Boy, Weapon Face and The Beginning of the End will go on show along with a major new work on canvas by the artist, Parasite – a shocking, yet beautifully delicate reaction to our world today.
Like Banksy, Micallef is represented by Soho art dealer Steve Lazarides and, also like his contemporary, Antony has already built up a cult celebrity following. His September 2007 solo show, Impure Idols, held in Hollywood, sold out in less than 2 hours, with buyers including Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie, Christina Aguilera and Damian Hirst. Other collectors include Robin Williams, Jude Law, Michael Stipe from REM and The Strokes musician Nick Velensi.
Combining “skilled brushwork with references to old masters and graphic design”, at the age of 33 Antony Micallef has already been described as a “cultural icon”. Banksy may have brought urban street art to our attention, but those in the know are looking to Antony Micallef to show the way.
Antony Micallef at GSK Contemporary at the Royal Academy from 1st November 2008 – 19 January 2009
www.lazinc.com
Valentino Monticello
11 September 2008
By Antonia Pearce
For many years, the art of Valentino Monticello has been a great success with a variety of audiences. His works of art regularly fetch over £10,000 at auction, while Christie’s and the National Gallery in London celebrated the originality of his work by writing the foreword for Monticello’s book: Opera and Wine – Wine in Opera.
Monticello specialises in collages which are cleverly created out of wine labels, with each work depicting intriguing operatic scenes, mythology, anthropomorphic flowers or even an individual’s portrait.
A humble man with a scholar’s mind, Valentino realised his talent in the later part of his life. The grandson of a wine producer and the son of a hotel owner, Monticello moved from his home near Vicenza in Italy, to London in 1959.
With his inherited knowledge of wine (both its taste and cultural history) he embarked upon a career as a sommelier at Club 21. However, one evening, Valentino happened to meet Mark Birley and subsequently became the head sommelier at Harry’s Bar. Here, Monticello’s artistry was to find itself an audience. Mark Birley soon commissioned him to create the infamous Harry’s Bar Christmas cards and members quickly started to request private commissions for themselves.
Monticello has subsequently enriched every subject to which he has applied himself. The work of collecting the wine labels, which are then cut, trimmed and mounted to illustrate the opera or object in question, is a tribute to both his patience and skill.
The colour and inscription of the wine label is integrated into the image, allowing for rich and dynamic works of art to develop. The levels of thought that go into his work are multifarious; operatic scenes contain references to wine and the wine labels he uses come from the same country as each opera originates from.
The scope of his enthusiasm for opera and wine is fully demonstrated in Opera and Wine – Wine in Opera (for which he researched more than 2,000 libretti). It shows the breadth of Monticello’s knowledge of both opera and wine, from Europe to Oceania. One of the most extraordinary collages depicts a scene from the Italian opera La Gioconda – a crowd scene, with people gathering in St. Mark’s Square, Venice, beneath the grandeur of the Doge’s Palace.
Other collages depict flowers, roses morphing into feminine nudes and portraits with a distinctly Uccello-like quality. His latest work is a collection of collages celebrating the life of Bacchus, the god of wine – the works were bought in their entirety upon completion. Monticello is currently designing Christmas cards for Harry’s Bar, Annabel’s and George.
The genius of Monticello is not only in the beautiful fruits of his labour – but that he has managed to find a way to marry his three passions; wine, art, and opera. To do something successfully – and to be recognised as doing so – is surely the mark of a man who has mastered the art of living.
Valentino Monticello’s work can be viewed at his Harley Street gallery by prior appointment. Please contact
enquiries@lifestyle-boutique.co.uk for more information.
Zaha Hadid – Mobile Art
30 August 2008
By Verity Douglas
Visitors to Central Park this autumn will encounter a lot more than the occasional jogger or excitable canine. Looking not too dissimilar to something that took a wrong turn out of NASA, the latest offering from Chanel is distinctly ‘otherworldly’ and will be landing in every New Yorker’s favourite garden this October.
CHANEL ‘Mobile Art’ sees Karl Lagerfeld taking his role as the house’s ‘artistic director’ in a distinctly artistic direction. His collaboration with Britain’s award winning architect Zaha Hadid and France’s art aficionado Fabrice Bousteau, heralds a new chapter in the ‘fashion as art’ story.
Blurring the boundaries between fashion, art and architecture, ‘Mobile Art’ is a testament to the scope of contemporary design and engineering. It has also revolutionised the concept of a museum. This museum will travel to you.
Hadid’s ‘Contemporary Art Container’ has attracted huge crowds of gallery goers, who are fascinated not only by the art exhibited but by the beauty of the building itself. At 550 square metres, the ‘guerrilla’ gallery will undoubtedly draw gasps when it arrives in New York to start the third leg of its‘ globe-spanning’ six city tour.
Designed with Chanel’s 2.55 handbag in mind, Hadid has stuck to her recipe of clean lines and smooth curves. However, like the Chanel handbag, the ‘container’ combines aesthetics with function on a large scale. The quilt of the infamous bag has masterfully been re-created through the use of steel, fibreglass and plastic. Moreover, the 700 flat-pack components slot together to create a moveable microcosm for contemporary art.
Clearly inspired by Zaha Hadid, Largefeld has described the architect as ‘a kind of Coco Chanel of today, not in fashion, but in architecture.’ Hadid hopes that the mobile exhibition will continue to reinvent itself as it travels across the globe.
Hadid has cemented her status as a ‘starchitect’ of the 21st Century. Her iconic structures are immediately recognisable and have overhauled the traditional architectural concepts. Once considered simply a great designer, Hadid has proved herself by creating buildings that appear to defy the laws of physics. She is rapidly becoming one of the most sought-after designers globally and her name is synonymous with cutting-edge creations that are catapulting architecture into the avant-garde.
And with that Chanel- Mobile Art’ is a triumph. Fusing influences from the fashion world with the best in contemporary art and architecture. The gallery is a testament to the vision of Lagerfeld and the tenacity of Hadid, who together, have created the first pack-away gallery, making art more accessible to all. Coming soon to a city near you…
Black Tomato – Adrenaline Seeker
14 August 2008
by Emily Paine
The Black Tomato website should probably come with a serious warning: If the chances of you taking a holiday any time soon are slim, do not enter, or you’re likely to fall into a major depression. Or if you have any tendency towards wander-lust or adrenaline-addiction, enter with serious caution, or you may find that you’ve uncontrollably quit your job and booked yourself a one-way flight to any of the unbelievable destinations on offer. If the goal of the founders was to create a site which sends your desire for extreme fun into overdrive, they’ve certainly succeeded – and from all reports, it’s clear they don’t make hollow promises.
Black Tomato was started in 2005 by three 26-year-old city boys, struck by the thought that, with their extensive business and leisure travel experience behind them, it might be an idea to side-step off the corporate conveyor belt and spend their days dealing with what they really loved, namely travel (largely of the action-packed variety). Between them, Tom Marchant, Matt Smith and James Merret had lived in Moscow, Johannesburg and a host of destinations in between. They were clear, though, that another company in a highly competitive market would have to have an original edge. Black Tomato has certainly found one, offering a range of personally tailored, off-the-wall travel packages, where the emphasis is on the experience as well as the destination.
They can whisk you off to far-flung places you’d never have dreamt it would be possible to go, for activities that are unlikely even to have occurred to people. Anyone fancy replicating the famous Goldeneye jump, where Bond hops with total composure off the edge of a thundering 220m dam? Or taking a trip to Antarctica and spending your days strolling amongst the penguins and climbing unchartered territory? Thought so. How about volcano surfing (yes, it is exactly what it sound like) in Nicaragua or cage diving with the great white sharks in South Africa? Black Tomato knows only too well that their clientele are cash-rich and time poor, and ever aware of the tricky situations that can arise when you’re 24/7 busy, have incorporated a pulsating panic button on their website that links straight to a ‘panic operator’. They’ll set in motion some emergency trip-planning when your week off is a mere few days away and you haven’t a clue where to go. Blind panic and self-directed rage need never set in again.
Never a company to sit on their laurels, Black Tomato are always coming up with fun and innovative activities: they’ve just launched the Amazing Face Race, a portrait competition that invites people to upload their people, animals or even statue portraits taken on their adventures abroad, for inclusion on the exhibition wall and the chance to win a travel prize that gets bigger and bigger the more people enter. The resulting online ‘exhibition’ is beautiful, with faces of every nationality and generation smiling side by side.
Oh and apparently Black Tomatoes do exist – they’re an extremely rare and delicious fruit found in few locations. It’s not difficult to see how the name applies.
The Art of Bonsai – Miniature Perfection
14 July 2008
BY EMILY PAINE
When Christian Dior’s models powered down the catwalk last January proudly flaunting headdresses inspired by bonsai trees, it was abundantly clear, if it hadn’t been before, that this mesmerising Eastern art had truly captured the Western imagination. Bonsai, the art of growing perfectly formed trees in miniature, is revered in Japan and in China for its beauty and philosophical overtones – observing the changing seasons on such a tiny scale is a meditative and satisfying activity, and bonsai growers speak of cultivating scenery nostalgic of their childhood. As other aspects of life in the East such as yoga, Buddhism, feng-shui and tai-chi take hold in the West as part of our attempt to de-clutter and find some sort of harmony, it’s not surprising that bonsai, a minimalist labour of love, is gaining avid fans.
The Eastern philosophical interest in observing universal truths and wisdom by simplifying or reducing things is clearly seen in bonsai, and comprises one of the strongest components of its attraction worldwide. It is described in a 13th century poem by a Japanese Zen Monk, Kokan Shiren: “These stones then, just a number of inches tall, are nothing short of a mountainous island rising from the sea! . . . I will blow on the water and raise up billows from the four seas! The person who changes these waters turns the whole sea upside down. The relative size of things is an uncertain business. Why, there is a vast plain on a fly’s eyelash and whole nations in a snail’s horn, a Chinese philosopher has told us.”
This reduction and simplification can also be observed both in haiku, the minimalist 17-syllable poetry which is endemic in Japan’s culture, and the simple raked stone gardens of famous temples such as Roan-ji in Kyoto.
There are numerous claims as to the exact inception of bonsai. One explanation is that a Chinese emperor in the Han Dynasty (206BC and 220AD) created a miniature landscape to represent his entire empire, so he could have the pleasure of looking upon his realm from his palace window. The universal fascination with dolls houses, model train sets, tin soldiers and the like demonstrates that this idea of the world in miniature (particularly one we can control) is a fundamental human interest crossing cultures and generations. Other claims state that the Chinese were attracted to naturally gnarled and deformed trees because of their resemblance to auspicious animals such as dragons and serpents, and began cultivating them in pots for spiritual and superstitious reasons. Today the fascination with these diminutive trees is being taken to new levels – ‘mini-bonsai’, some small enough to fit into tiny vials for hanging off mobile phones (and known as ‘pet trees’, a name which captures the other, perhaps counter-intuitive appeal of bonsai – its care-intensiveness), are all the rage in Japan.
Whereas bonsai originally used trees that were naturally deformed, nowadays trees are shaped from saplings, using wire to hold the branches in the desired position, and pruned and pinched to keep them small. Keeping them in a pot also necessarily restrains their roots, which prevents them from growing too large. Techniques used to add to the illusion of age involve the removal of bark and the carving of the exposed wood.
A visit to a well-kept bonsai garden is a soothing and uplifting experience, and there are several to choose from. The Kokufu Bonsai Exhibition in the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum in Ueno, Tokyo, is the largest and most prestigious exhibition in the world, and the conglomeration of Bonsai nurseries in Omiya, near Tokyo, provide stunning examples of the art in gorgeous, peaceful settings. For information, contact the Omiya Tourist Bureau at 630 Nishiki-cho, Omiya-ku, Saitama City Saitama Prefecture, +81 (0) 48-644-1144. The beautiful oriental garden in Happo-en, (1-1-1 Shirokanedai Minato, Japan, +81 (0)3 3443 3111, www.happo-en.com) boasts some of the oldest bonsai in the world, at over 200 years old. A lovingly tended Japanese Garden in the US National Arboretum houses the National Bonsai Collection and provides a haven of meditative calm in the midst of the city (3501 New York Avenue, NE Washington D.C., +1 (0) 202 245 2726), while a selection of elegant bonsai can be seen in the UK in the idyllic setting of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB, +44 (0) 20 8332 5655).
Image courtesy of Christian Dior Spring 2007
Audio Feast with…
26 June 2008
By EMILY PAINE
One of the greatest pleasures of living in a cosmopolitan city is the ever-increasing number of sushi bars designed to tantalize our taste buds and provide us with new, exciting and eclectic flavours. Sushi, like grown up pic’n’mix, gives us choice and access to quick-speed glamour. Audio Sushi, the bespoke i-pod loading, playlist-compiling music company will inspire you through sound in the same way that sushi delights. Be prepared for a music feast…
Kerrin Wallace and Jeffery Reed (aka DJ Disastronaut) founded Audio Sushi in 2007 – these incredible ‘music stylists’ are the perfect people to inform the many technically inept, time-poor music lovers among us on what’s hot now and how to sort the classics from the clunkers. Audio Sushi provides one-to-one music consultations and having ascertained your taste, compile playlists for anything from personal enjoyment to corporate events. Their individually tailored ‘Party-Pod’ service provides a good alternative to a live DJ (although they do that too), and they can also advise on the technical set-up.
Harvey Nichols, Bungalow 8 and the European fashion weeks all call on Audio Sushi to prescribe music that is in keeping with their brand and they trust the Audio Sushi duo to keep their brand reputation happening and inspiring through music association.
Ultimately, Audio Sushi works because its founders love music. However, there is no snobbery involved; Kerrin and Jeffery are equally happy to recommend an independent record label find, or indulge a secret penchant for Dolly Parton. Moreover, their experience means that you can constantly enjoy the fruits of an ever-changing music scene, personally tailored to delight your senses.
Audio Sushi’s Menu comprises of a ‘Consultation’, £130, which includes a music styling session, an 80-minute customised playlist and five album recommendations as well as a ‘Sushi Bento Box’, £165, which includes a music styling session, three 80-minute customised playlists and ten album recommendations with additional 60-minute playlists for £38. Their ‘Music to Go’ package, £45, is a good taster option which makes up-to-the-minute suggestions according to your answers on a questionnaire and provides you with a ‘Desert Island Disc.’
Contact: +44(0)870 977 0025; www.audiosushi.net, music@audiosushi.net
Apart Productions
15 June 2008
‘Love will bring us apart again’
June 22nd will see the opening of Apart’s annual London Summer show in a derelict bank in the heart of Notting Hill. The show brings together the cream of Apart’s talent for a six week art extravaganza before heading off to Berlin in July and Las Vegas in September.
‘Love will bring us apart again’ comes hot on the heels of Apart’s two inaugural LA shows earlier this year in Culver City and Abbot Kinney ‘Love will bring us apart again’ and ‘London Calling’
Amongst the eclectic lineup will be Sex Pistols photographer Peter Gravelle, Gorillaz illustrator Jamie Hewlett, Mutoid Waste Company founder Joe Rush, Belgian artist Mr Wim, Swedish latex scupltress Emelie Salford, French punk teddy bear creator Tony Pronier and mechanical poodle supremo Simon Brundrett.
Apart was formed by Adrian Palengat on London’s Portobello Road in 1999. Specialising in foreign artists working in different media, the showroom soon became a favourite of artists and collectors alike. Collaborations with a wide range of corporations ensued ranging from LVMH, Commes des Garcons and Royal Elastics to KSwiss and Vladivar Vodka. The gallery’s clients include Sir Paul Smith, Noel and Liam Gallagher, Liam Howlett, Keith Flint, Paul Weller, Julian Metcalfe, Richard Curtis, Minnie Driver, Natalie Umbruglia and many others.
In 2007, Adrian Palengat took the showroom on the road, curating shows in France, Tokyo, London and Milan. Shows in Los Angeles, Tokyo, Berlin, Las Vegas and London are planned for 2008.
133-137 Westbourne Grove, London, W11 2RS
Bespoke Perfumery
12 May 2008
By JUDITH JONES
Before the rise in demand for bespoke perfumery we fooled ourselves into thinking that our wrists and senses were satisfied with what the luxury brands told us to buy. The ultimate in luxury meant flying in the jet to Bergdof’s and acquiring Clive Christian’s No.1 perfume at a mere $2,350 a pop. For added lustre we could customise our own bottle, a la Elton John who apparently spent $250,000 for the privilege of having his bespoke perfume encased in a piano shaped bottle. Another valuable investment was the limited edition scents encased in Baccarat crystal bottles, encased in five carat diamond and fifteen carat gold valued at over $200,000. But even this doesn’t quite seem to cut it in our ever demanding world, where we yearn for something more individual, more unique.
Bespoke scents are the ultimate in the individual style statement, reflecting our lifestyle and unique preferences. Commissioning a bespoke scent is the fastest growing trend in the luxury world. And it comes as no surprise that luxury brands such as Guerlain, Cartier and Creed as well as the smaller, exclusive, specialised perfume houses such as L’Artisan Parfumeur in Paris and Les Senteurs in London are investing in the rapid growth niche sector of bespoke perfumery.
Through the art of bespoke scents the wearer can acquire a unique olfaction and delight in a perfume that truly reflects their own personality. Haute perfumeries offer a series of consultations with ‘their nose’ in residence and demand a revelation of personal tastes and desires to uncover your personal history of smell. Like Egyptian and Arabian kings and queens of eras past, we can now be part of this unique process.
Frederic Malle of ‘Editions de Parfums’ has led the current renaissance in bespoke scents. His perfumes are avant-garde, objects of desire – each one signed by its true creator. He successfully ‘eliminates all that is superfluous and merely decorative.’ Other leaders in the field include Creed in Paris, who have been creating custom made perfume for more than 240 years and charge $7,300 per litre (with a minimum order of ten litres.)
Wearing a fragrance, made especially for you is the ultimate luxury. It encapsulate’s luxury’s evolution. You’ll never have to smell like anyone else again. Now that’s a new height of pleasure.
Creed: http://www.creedfragrances.co.uk/site/
Frederic Malle: http://www.editionsdeparfums.com/
Les Senteurs: http://www.lessenteurs.com/
L’Artisan Perfumeur: http://www.artisanparfumeur.com/
About
The world of Insignia
INSIGNIA Lifestyle Boutique is the newest outlet of an internationally successful concierge service only available to ultra-high-net-worth individuals.
Lifestyle Boutique
Lifestyle Boutique
INSIGNIA Lifestyle Boutique is the newest outlet of the most successful international concierge servicefounded by a leading European financial services provider.
Secret Insider
The Art of Living
LB invites unique and inspirational individuals who have mastered the ‘the art of living’ to share their secrets with you.